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Blacksteel Raises the Bar in Hollywood
The latest up and coming hot spot to open in Hollywood is called Blacksteel, and the driving force behind the serious work being done in the kitchen is chef Jason Harley, a.k.a. Chef J. This is a guy who knows how to work a room. Located on Hollywood Boulevard, Blacksteel is a little difficult to spot cruising by, but it is right next to the trendy Bella Cucina Restaurant on the corner of Las Palmas. The hustle and bustle and noise of Hollywood Boulevard can be slightly disconcerting, but once you are inside Blacksteel, Chef J will be working his butt off to take you on a culinary journey.
The prices are quite high by Hollywood standards, but for serious gourmands they will find it a welcome addition to the scene. The tasting menu is the way to go, but the A La Carte menu will be a good way to go if the budget is more conservative. The chef abhors the use of cream in his cooking, and this is a place you can eat a fair amount of food, and walk away not feeling bloated.
Chef J is a hands on chef, which is no surprise since he is a part owner along with partner Gonzalo Nieto, a tax attorney well known in the restaurant industry. Pamela Anderson is also listed as a partner or investor, and her immediate contribution is “Pam’s Vegetarian Menu.” The interior design is reminiscent of a New York loft, very industrial with high ceilings, and there is a great looking open kitchen with a very expensive (try $500,000) center island cooking range from France, with a preparation system that utilizes blacksteel pots and pans. The open kitchen allows diners to hear Chef J cajoling and pushing his hard working brigade, and it comes as no surprise that the turnover in the kitchen since opening day has been very high, with many of his staff getting the boot.
The service at Blacksteel is very quick and professional, and as soon as you settle down in the extremely comfortable black steel studded chairs, hot fresh crusty bread from the kitchen is served with either a lobster bisque or French Onion soup done Miso style. Both soups were served piping hot, with the lobster tasting just right.
The crab cakes come three on a plate, served very hot and extremely succulent with a jalapeno ponzi aioli and roasted sansho pepper carrot slaw. They are probably as good as you are going to get in Hollywood, as is the three-tier fried egg plant dish, not an obvious choice for a restaurant like this.
Blacksteel also has a sushi bar right on the premises which classifies the restaurant as Classic French with light Japanese preparations. This comes to fore in such dishes as the Kobe Beef, beautifully prepared with quite a heavy truffled soy béarnaise, three cheese potato gratin, tiny tomatoes and fresh asparagus.
The separate portions were not too large, and the Kobe is one of four main course choices on the tasting menu, and the other one I had a taste of from my partners plate was the Broiled Maui Lobster Tails, cut in small pieces and prepared with lemon, garlic, tomato basil and crispy shallots. It tasted so good, and no wonder, because it had been swimming about in the ocean in Maui only 12 hours previously, hence the reason for the high price tag. People will pay decent money for top quality food in this town no doubt; a restaurant owner/chef just has to ensure that there are enough of them on a consistent basis.
Desserts are outstanding here, especially the Passion Fruit Crème Brulee, or the delectable Double Rubble Chocolate Mousse Cake served with a Raspberry Tamarind Compote and Raspberry Sauce.
Fact Sheet
Blacksteel
6683 Hollywood Blvd
Hollywood, CA 90028
323.469.3456
Valet Parking $8
www.blacksteel.tv
Tasting Menu - 6 courses $100
By Michael Hepworth | June 7, 2006 in Restaurant News | Permalink
